Shut-ins and a ranger station turned coffee shop in Southeast Missouri
Ancient pink granite boulders form a “shut-in” on the Castor River in Southeast Missouri.
in this blog
Skip ahead to:
The destination
Fredericktown, Missouri — about 90 miles southwest of Saint Louis
The nature
Castor River Shut-Ins — about 10 miles west of town
The nom nom
The Station at Sawyer’s Landing — about 10 miles east of the shut-ins
In the gently rolling foothills of the Saint Francois Mountains, just outside Mark Twain National Forest, sits the charming little community of Fredericktown, Missouri.
Little as in about 4,500 people. Charming as in folks still smile and say, “hello.” Well, some of them.
And, wait, mountains in Missouri? Yep!
Volcanic activity created the Saint Francois Mountains some 1.5 billion years ago. If they seem small — hardly like mountains at all — that’s because they are. They’ve been wearing away all … this … time.
By contrast, the Appalachians to the east formed about 460 million years ago. And, to the west, the Rockies formed a mere 140 million years ago.
So, yeah, those young punks tower over the elder Saint Francois Mountains. They haven’t had the same exposure to wind, water, ice and other elements of erosion.
Call them mountains. Call them hills (ageism much?). It doesn’t matter.
Because it doesn’t take away from the undeniable beauty of this rural area in Southeast Missouri.
A brief history of Fredericktown, Missouri
Like so many towns in the area, Fredericktown got its start with lead.
European settlers began arriving in the early 1700s to mine the element, which was used for roofing, windows, water pipes and ammunition at the time.
The town was officially incorporated in 1827.
In 1861, a small skirmish brought the Civil War to Fredericktown’s doorstep. With the resulting victory helping to secure southeast Missouri for the Union Army.
As Fredericktown entered the 1900s, mining production began to wane. Job prospects were looking bleak until the Brown Shoe Company opened its manufacturing plant in 1936.
The plant later closed in 2009. Today, the town runs on healthcare, retail and other manufacturing.
And, just a touch of tourism.
Nature in Fredericktown, Missouri
Castor River Shut-Ins
Looking downstream along the Castor River Shut-Ins in late summer.
There’s no shortage of nature to enjoy in and around Fredericktown.
One of the town’s neighbors is the 1.5-million-acre Mark Twain National Forest, managed by the U.S. Forest Service (USFS). Another is the 1,600-acre Amidon Conservation Area, part of the Missouri Department of Conservation.
This blog takes us to the latter, specifically to the pink granite shut-ins on the Castor River.
Here, ancient boulders and canyon-like walls transform the Castor River from just another Ozark stream into a natural marvel.
The towering rocks force the river from its broader bed into narrow chutes and passageways. Hence the term “shut-in.”
And, the granite’s pinkish hue? That’s from the iron minerals in the rock — some locals even call this spot “Pink Rocks.”
You’ll hear the river rushing through the shut-ins before you see it. Yet, just above and below the shut-ins, the river moves at a pretty chill pace.
The science of a shut-in
Looking upstream as the Castor River approaches the pink granite shut-ins.
Why does the river move so much faster through the shut-ins?
The answer lies in the billion-year-old boulders. They don’t just make the river more scenic. They reshape it.
As the river reaches the shut-ins, it must divert from its path and find a way through a maze of gigantic rocks.
The same volume of water that was once flowing languidly now has less space to move through. So, it speeds up, building pressure and energy as it crashes forward.
And that, friends, is why calm water can, seemingly in an instant, become roaring chutes and swirling rapids that transform an already beautiful spot into a magical one.
Location, hours, activities and other details
Getting to Castor River Shut-Ins
The shut-ins are about 10 miles west of Fredericktown. Be sure to get directions going on your map app before leaving town, as service can get spotty the farther outside town you go.
I simply entered “Castor River Shut-Ins” in Google Maps, but the parking area is actually labeled as “Amidon Memorial Conservation Area” in the app.
The same signs that mark the trail to Castor River Shut-Ins can also be found along the county roads and at the entrance to the parking area.
Or, use GPS coordinates:
Latitude: 37.568818
Longitude: -90.15506
You’ll drive on a handful of curvy roads, both paved and gravel.
Once you leave the state roads, start looking for small signs for Amidon Conservation Area and then Castor River Shut-Ins.
At the trailhead off County Road 253, there’s a large, partially shady gravel parking area with a port-a-potty and a dumpster. These are the only services on-site — although we’re not sure if the port-a-potty is there year-round.
From there, walk about a quarter-mile on a mostly flat, natural surface trail to the shut-ins.
The area is open from 4 a.m. to 10 p.m. There are no parking or entry fees.
What to do at Castor River Shut-Ins
Calm pools of clear, cool water like this are what attract swimmers and waders to Castor River Shut-Ins in Southeast Missouri.
Hiking
Walk alongside / above the river to see how it transforms before, through and after the shut-ins. Cedar Glade Trail, a 1-mile loop, takes you to the glades above the river and down to the shut-ins. Be cautious of drop-offs and local critters, including snakes and ticks.Wading and swimming
Explore the various pools and mini waterfalls the shut-ins create. Be cautious of slick rocks, fast-moving currents, hidden drop-offs and turbulent water, especially on the downstream side of the boulders.Picnics
No glass bottles or containers. People walk barefoot in and alongside the river, so broken glass is very hazardous.Fishing
Photography
What to bring to Castor River Shut-Ins
Snacks and drinks — perhaps a small cooler if it’s hot out
Sunscreen, hat and sunglasses if it’s sunny
Towels or chairs to sit on, if you plan to stay awhile
A waterproof bag for your phone and car keys
Swimsuit and river shoes, if you plan to wade or swim — plus dry clothes and shoes for after
Clothing appropriate for the weather
Dogs at Castor River Shut-Ins
Bonnie cools off with a tootsie dip in the clear water at Castor River Shut-Ins.
Dogs can hike on the trails and play in the river at Castor River Shut-Ins.
Just watch that they don’t get too close to the edge of a drop-off. And, be sure to keep them on a leash and pick up after them.
Camping at Castor River Shut-Ins
There isn’t a developed campground at Castor River Shut-Ins. However, you can primitive camp along the Cedar Glade Trail. Camping spots are first-come, first-served. No reservation needed. Be sure to bring everything you need and pack out your trash.
How much time to spend at Castor River Shut-Ins
We spent about 2 hours at the shut-ins in early September, enjoying the views, taking photos, walking alongside the river and doing just a bit of wading.
If you want swim, fish or enjoy a picnic, you might plan for 4 to 6 hours.
When to visit Castor River Shut-Ins
Looking upstream as the Castor River makes its way past gigantic pink granite boulders that formed 1.5 billion years ago.
The good news about Castor River Shut-Ins is that the granite rocks stay pink all year long, so you can see them anytime.
In the spring, wildflowers, such as azaleas, add even more color to the beautiful scenery. And, the river level is likely up due to snowmelt and spring showers.
In the summer, you’ll want to arrive early to beat the crowds. The beautiful setting and cool, spring-fed water make this a popular swimming spot.
Autumn brings cooler temps, fewer people and possibly even some fall color on the trees. But, keep in mind, that fall weather doesn’t typically start in Missouri until mid-October, about a month after the season officially begins.
Winter can bring snow and solitude. However, the potential for a lower water level could dampen the soundscape of the shut-ins.
Visit during sunrise or stay for sunset to see how the rocks take on different hues as the light changes.
Nom nom in Fredericktown, Missouri
The Station at Sawyer’s Landing
A former Mark Twain National Forest ranger station has been reimagined as a coffee shop and bistro.
The surprises and delights in Fredericktown don’t end with Castor River Shut-Ins.
Before or after you explore the shut-ins, you must check out The Station at Sawyer’s Landing. In fact, we implore you to visit. Because you won’t want to miss this former Mark Twain National Forest ranger station turned small-town hipster coffee shop and bistro.
The ranger station has the great bones of a vintage building — it was built in 1933. And, thanks to a complete renovation by owners Erin and Ben Brubacher, a modern farmhouse aesthetic that’s simple, clean and inviting.
Patrons wait in line to order at The Station coffee shop.
The delights begin as soon as you arrive, with The Station sign along Missouri Route 72 that’s fashioned after a National Forest sign. Walking up to the coffee shop and bistro (assuming you don’t use the drive-through), you’ll notice the two levels of outdoor seating and perhaps the hole cut into the patio floor to accommodate a tree towering above.
A fun fact about trees on the 6-acre property: There’s one of each tree species that’s native to Missouri. The USFS planted bur oak, shortleaf pine, flowering dogwood and others.
But, let’s step inside and walk up to the counter of The Station, where you can browse outdoorsy-inspired merchandise and order any coffee or tea drink you can think of. That includes my favorite: an iced dirty chai with oat milk and one shot of espresso.
They also have Italian sodas, smoothies, juice and energy drinks.
Food offerings range from avocado toast and breakfast burritos to soups, salads and sandwiches. There’s a kid menu and homemade ice cream.
Browse the merchandise, including hats, t-shirts, candles and honey, as you wait in line to place an order at The Station.
And, here’s a surprise: a banh mi sandwich in rural Missouri.
Banh mi means “bread” in Vietnamese, but the phrase typically refers to a sandwich consisting of both fresh and savory ingredients on a soft bread with a crispy crust. At The Station, the bahn mi has barbecued pulled pork, carrots, provolone cheese, mayo and cilantro.
But, we suggest checking or asking about the specials board before you order. If they’re serving their smash burger, it’s a must try. We were so ravenous after exploring Castor River Shut-Ins that we forgot to take a picture of our burgers to share with you.
Whoops!
The Sawyer’s Landing part of the name refers to the rest of the property, which includes lodging, an event space and a charming treehouse for the kiddos to explore.
Community events at the property include movie nights, mat Pilates classes, plants sales, a summer music festival and more.
The patio is built around a tree that towers over the former ranger station.
500 MO-72
Fredericktown, Missouri 63645
Monday - Friday
6:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Saturday
7:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Sunday
7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
573-561-1158
Other local places to eat
Note: Restaurant information is current at the time of this blog posting and subject to change. Please check the latest hours and reviews before visiting.
Woodstack Smokehouse
24 Court Square
Fredericktown, Missouri 63645
4.8 out of 5 stars on Google Maps
Open 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday – Saturday
Indoor seating
Barbecue dishes include brisket, burnt ends and pulled pork
Other dishes include pizza and burgers
Starters and sides include cheese curds, fried green tomatoes, mac and cheese and waffle fries
The Depot Café
406 Villar Street
Fredericktown, Missouri 63645
4.7 out of 5 stars on Google Maps
Open 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday – Saturday and 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday
Indoor seating
Lunch: soups, salads, sandwiches, a baked pretzel and more
Dinner: steaks, fish, pasta and more
Sunday brunch: bagel sandwiches, breakfast burritos, eggs Benedict and more
The Pig Barbecue
910 State Highway OO
Fredericktown, Missouri 63645
4.2 out of 5 stars on Google Maps
Open daily for lunch and dinner, with occasional breakfast service, such as during hunting season
Indoor and outdoor seating, plus car hop service
Barbecue, sandwiches, burgers, hot dogs and more
Other things to do
(Canva photo)
Rows of granite boulders resembling circus elephants give Elephant Rocks State Park in Missouri its name.
Elephant Rocks State Park
26 miles from town
7406 Highway 21
Belleview, Missouri 63623
Walk among or climb giant granite boulders that formed 1.5 billion years ago
No entry or parking fees
Braille trail
Restrooms and water fountain
Madison County Courthouse
In the town center
1 Courthouse Square
Fredericktown, Missouri 63645
Visit Fredericktown’s small downtown area to see this beautiful historic building
Built in 1900 by renowned architect Theodore C. Link
On the National Register of Historic Places
Millstream Gardens Conservation Area
11 miles from town
Private Road 9534
Ironton, Missouri 63650
No entry or parking fees
Tiemann Shut-Ins on the St. Francis River
Hiking, fishing, kayaking and birding
Location of the Missouri Whitewater Championship each spring
Where to stay
Fredericktown is nearly 90 miles southwest of Saint Louis, the closet major city, and about 50 miles northwest of Cape Girardeau, a smaller city. So, you might prefer to stay a night or two instead of making a day trip. If so, we have some ideas.
Note: Camping and lodging information is current at the time of this blog posting and subject to change. Please check the most current info, and read all the policies before you book a stay.
Camping in or near Fredericktown, Missouri
Bonnie cools off in Twelvemile Creek, which runs along the Fredrock Glampground property south of Fredericktown.
Fredrock Glampground
16 miles from town
11288 US-67
Fredericktown, Missouri 63645
5 out of 5 stars on Google Maps
3 tent sites
5 RV sites with electric and gravel parking
2 tipi tent rentals
Various cabin and stationary RV rentals
Bathrooms and showers
Love’s RV Stop
Just outside town
MO-72 exit off US-67
Fredericktown, Missouri 63645
5 RV sites
Electric, sewer and water
Paved parking pads
Bathrooms inside the gas station
Mark Twain National Forest
Marble Creek Campground
19 miles from town
Latitude: 37.451117
Longitude: -90.54079651
Open mid April to early November
26 tent sites
Vault toilets
Silver Mines Campground
9 miles from town
Latitude: 37.559161
Longitude: -90.43879
Open March to October
60 tent sites
11 RV sites
Vault toilets
Just beyond our campsite at Sycamore Spring Campground outside Fredericktown is the Castor River, downstream from the shut-ins.
Sycamore Springs Campground (Hipcamp)
10 miles from town
Address provided after you make a reservation.
Recommended by 95% of visitors
On the Castor River just a few miles from the shut-ins
Port-a-potty
5 tent sites
5 RV sites with electric and grass / gravel parking
VRBO vacation rentals in or near Fredericktown, Missouri
Note: If you book a stay using one of our VRBO links, we may receive a very small referral commission. You won’t pay anything extra. Addresses are private until a reservation is made.
No ratings yet
3 bedrooms, 1 bath
Sleeps 6
Outdoor space with barbecue grill
No pets
10 out of 10 rating on VRBO
1 bedroom, 1 bath
Sleeps 4
Outdoor space with barbecue grill
Pets allowed
No ratings yet
1 bedroom, 1 bath
Sleeps 4
Outdoor space with firepit
No pets
9 out of 10 rating on VRBO
1 bedroom, 1 bath
Sleeps 4
Overlooks St. Francis River
No pets
Sawyer’s Landing lodging (also through VRBO)
Timberwolf camping trailers are one of the many lodging options at Sawyer’s Landing, just a short walk from all the goodness available at The Station.
No pets
Glamping tents and yurts
Shared bathhouse
Outdoor space with firepit
Taum Sauk Retreat (mislabeled as an RV stay on VRBO)
No ratings yet
Sleeps 2
No ratings yet
Sleeps 5
No ratings yet
Sleeps 5
No ratings yet
Sleeps 7 in two separate tents, one of which is on a raised platform
Timberwolf RVs
2 bedrooms, 1 bath
Sleeps 6
Unit 1
10 out of 10 rating on VRBO
Unit 2
10 out of 10 rating on VRBO
Unit 3 (mislabeled as unit 1 on VRBO)
No ratings yet
Unit 4
10 out of 10 rating on VRBO
Tiny homes
Outdoor space with firepit
No ratings yet
1 bedroom, 1 bath
Sleeps 4
One of the original USFS buildings on the property
No ratings yet
1 bedroom, 1 bath
Sleeps 5
Exploring nature and supporting small businesses? We love both of those things. If you do too, then add Fredericktown, Missouri to your list of road trip ideas. And, stay tuned for more blogs in our nature & nom nom series.
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